I remember being a kid at my family’s holiday dinner table, passing along the dish of boiled, buttered potatoes without a second thought. My potato world was so small. I wasn’t crazy about the buttered spuds, but they weren’t especially terrible. They were just there. The world is full of incredible potato preparations, and there are far too many ways to enjoy the humble tuber without ever settling for something boring. A frozen shredded potato has very little in common with the knobby, dirty, delectable gems you can find at farmer’s markets. When you can find them, the heirloom varieties benefit from simple preparations that don’t mask the potatoes’ earthy goodness.